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Everything you use on a regular basis needs cleansing. It may be frequent like clothes are washed almost every day. Or with intervals, like you clean your sofas in months. In cities, one regular thing we all must use is the car. Getting the car washed is common in our routine – Experts refer to this as detailing a car. But that’s often limited to the exterior. What about the inside of the car which touches the body? Don’t they get dirty from the shoeing too? What about the sweat, droplets and pet fur? Detailing a car interior is a complex work requiring experience and expertise. Multiple steps include the use of chemicals and numerous equipment. Many find it quite tougher than detailing the exterior. However, Specialized tools and techniques can help to make the job easier for you. In this article, we shall use the auto detailing heated Extractors for most of our purpose.Detailing a car requires cleaning far beyond the usual vacuum and wash job. It means to pay attention to every minute detail that makes the car healthy and show-worthy.

Step 1 : Brush through and through
Floor mats are removeed along with all removable personal items. Next we discarded packets, polybags, trash papers, etc.Then,
we brush from the Top to bottom. Many start with the floors. But that releases dirt accumulated on the dash, seats and door panels back onto your freshly cleaned carpet. Professionals start at the top and work their way down to the floor when detailing cars. As dust accumulated at the bottom rarely falls up. We then Slide Seats Back and Forth many times because you’ll be surprised by what you find behind the seats. For interior detailing, you must not miss areas neglected in regular clean-ups. Move everything around inside to get access to all those areas. The rear section of an SUV may have compartments under the floor, if so we clean them. When all these are moved, they are brushedl thoroughly – the seats, the dash, the headliner, all of them. We use a brush attachment for the dash and door panels. Finally, we wipe off the seat-tracks with a paper towel and discard them afterwards.
Brush the Air vents. To ensure dust free air, you must clean car air vent grilles with detailing brushes. Finally some vinyl dressing might be sprayed onto the vent grilles to give the decor a fresher degree.

Step 2: Vacuum
It is best to vacuum from the floor. After WE have brushed deeply to pull off the dirts, they get collected on the floor. So, then we vacuum the floor, then proceed one by one to the mats, trunk, upholstery, rear parcel shelves (if you have one) and the dash. Another brushing prosess is preformed again. Next we slide the seats all the way forward and backward to thoroughly vacuum underneath. Sucking Up the Dust As You Go. When we vacuum the headliner, dash, console,door panels, we do a very detailed job. We have to sweep the dust out cracks with a detailing brush and instantly catch all crud with the vacuum.

Step 3: Deep Clean the Carpet and Upholstery
The carpet or upholstery can be cleaned by applying a foam cleanser and rubbing onto it with a damp cloth or sponge. But foam-cleansing is never as much efficient as cleaning with a heat-extractor. Using a hot water extractor is the most effective way to deep clean carpeting, after you “dry scrub” the carpet, which loosens dirt from the fibres deeply. A hot water extractor is a machine to clean carpets and alike fabrics. This machine work gets the deep dirt settled in the fibres. It flows on the carpet a solution of hot water and a cleaner solution and then sucks the grime into its reservoir. 

Step 4: Wipe the Interior smoothly
A professional cleaning product, called C49 is used to wipe the interior surfaces. Afterwards, we use an interior dressing to give the final finish.
With a Microfiber Mitt instead of the Sponge Sponges capture dirt and grit in their large pores. The dust is brushed with a microfiber car wash mitt. Microfiber mitts don’t hold grits, and give an overall better cleaning to your car. Stubborn spots are cleaned with isopropyl alcohol. With proper use, it effectively removes shoe scuffs and marks alike.

Step 5: Seat Leather Conditioning
You should condition your leather seats at least every six months. After we've cleaned the leather, conditioning fluid is applied on all leather, rubber, plastic and vinal surfaces. We do this so the leather remains both visually appealing and doesn’t dry out and begin to crack.

Step 6: Window Cleaning
We clean the windows second to last inorder to clean the woodgrain and metal surfaces at the same time. Also because some dust and debris will come off the rag.  

Step 8: Final Vacuum
Last step is the finishing vacuum. Detailing means dealing with all the trim lines and recesses that a quick cleaning job cannot deal with. It may be tiresome, but the freshness you get in return is totally worth it!

Before you take a trip to the wash or decide to have your car professionally detailed, it is important to understand the processes that go into detailing. Depending on what you expectations are when having your vehicle cleaned, you may want to go with a professional detail. Every car detailers processes are different, however there are certain pillars of auto detailing that remain consistent across the industry. We are going to break down these pillars and explain each step of the detailing process so that you know what to look for and know what to expect when getting your car detailed.

Removal of Contaminates
All professional details begin with the washing phase. The wash phase begins with a rinse and then application of soap to the entire exterior of the car. Soap is applied through either a foam cannon, or through direct application with a washing mitt. The purpose of applying the soap early on is to remove as much contaminates that are embedded in the pain as possible. During this phase, a majority of the exterior contaminates will be removed. When the soap foams, dirt and mud are softened and pulled from the paint. This stage also is typically done at the same time as the wheels are cleaned. Detailers will use special brushes and wheel products to remove built up brake dust and road grime from the wheels and tires.
After soap application and washing, the vehicle is then rinsed to remove the soap and trapped dirt. Even after the wash phase, there will still be some contaminates that are stuck on the paint. The next step in the decontamination phase is to clay bar the exterior of the vehicle. Clay barring is actually just as it sounds. The detailer will use a clay bar combined with an aiding solution to remove any remaining dirt in the paint. The clay bar is used to remove surface dirt in the paint and glass surfaces.

Surface Defect Removal
If required, the paint may need to be polished to eliminate light scratches, oxidation, and swirl marks. Over time your car will build up scratches and defects in the paint surface. These imperfections may be in the form of RIDS (Random Isolated Defects) or surface swirls. Depending on the severity of your cars exterior, you may need a multi stage correction to remove the surface imperfections. Most surface imperfections can be removed with a single stage of polishing, however some cars may need more attention. Surface defect removal involves using a polisher and polishing compound to remove the surface swirls. Once the surface defects have been removed, the car is ready to be protected by either a wax or ceramic coating.

Protection
It is pointless to have your car cleaned and the exterior defects removed if you are not going to protect the paint afterwards. There are several options when deciding how you want to protect your cars exterior. The most popular choice for protection is waxing, because it is the cheapest to apply. Wax may last one to six months depending on the wax compound used. The higher end option for protection is ceramic coating, which bonds to your vehicles paint and can last up to 2 years if the vehicle is properly maintained. Ceramic coating can also be applied to the glass surfaces to protect the glass as well. The draw back of ceramic coating is that it can be very expensive, and takes longer to cure than wax.